Kozue at the Park Hyatt Tokyo under the helm of talented chef Kenichiro Ooe is a wonderful traditional Japanese restaurant with amazing views of Mount Fuji on a clear day. Lunch was a gorgeous affair filled with seasonal spring May seafood and vegetables.

First course – Yomogi (mugwort) tofu garnished with shirasu, umeboshi neriume, gomadare (sesame sauce), and wasabi – loved the lacquer spoon at the bottom of the photo.

First course close-up. The yomogi is an earthy green which was a nice contrast to the sesame dressing. The tart umeboshi brightened up the palate and the shirasu added a nice texture and contrast to the dish.

Second course – Ainame (greenling) with itawarabi (gelatin-like sheets made from bracken – this can only be made in the spring), and wakame soup with ki no me (tender leaves from Japanese prickly ash sansho).

One of the pleasures of Japanese cuisine is that even after years of experiencing the cuisine, I am constantly learning about new ingredients. Today’s surprise was the itawarabi. It had a delicate, jelly-like texture. I thought it was a thin sheet of konnyaku. Chef Oe explained that it was itawarabi and something that is only made in spring when warabi are harvested from the mountains.

Third course – Sashimi course of tairagai (pen shell), katsuo with pickled rakkyo over grated daikon oroshi, ika (squid), and namanori (fresh nori), and julienned daikon.

A famous chef from the US highly recommended Kozue to me. He said the cuisine was exquisite, but he was also taken with the presentation of the food and the serving vessels. I understood when this sashimi course was presented in this large ceramic filled with crushed ice. The kimono-clad waitress then plated the seafood and garnishes onto serving dishes. A feast for the eyes indeed. See for yourself the difference from the above photo to the one below.

Third course – after arranged by waitress. My favorite was the tairagai which I don’t see much outside of Japan, notably sashimi grade tairagai.

Fourth course – Again a beautiful presentation under fresh wasabi leaves.

Fourth course  uncovered – Spanish mackerel with eggs, hotaruika (firefly squid), kani  (crab) potato croquette.

Fifth course – Tai zushi under a sakura leaf

Sixth course – Takenoko (bamboo shoots) pork and cabbage (home-style rolled cabbage). This is a dish I will try to make at home. I love rolled cabbage but can’t be bothered with making the dish more than once a year. Here, chef Ooe stuffs the ground pork mixture into layers of cabbage that are then cooked. Brilliant idea. And, delicious.

Seventh course – Asari gohan with pickles and fuki (butterbur) miso soup. Asari clams cooked with the rice. A nice way to end the savory dishes with.

Eighth course – Yamabudo (mountain grapes) with ichigo strawberries and biwa (loquat) jelly and creme sauce and berry sauce. I love these large glass dishes. I have seen it used for both savory and sweet courses and it’s always a treat. This course was a nice, light finish to the many dishes.

We had tea with our meal and I feel as though we were served at least two if not three types of tea throughout the meal. Service was lovely. And even though I speak Japanese it was nice to hear the staff explain each dish in English. They could answer all my questions which was also very impressive.

While my eyes are mostly on the food, between courses looking over the room the high ceilings are impressive. The windows face West. So if the skies are clear Mount Fuji is just in front of you. On this weekday lunch the restaurant was very busy. A few tourists, several business lunches, and some ladies-who-lunch types.

One option at lunch is to take your dessert at the Peak Bar & Lounge which is a restaurant on a different floor, also with high ceilings and great views, including a wall that overlooks Mount Fuji. I will do this next time I eat at Kozue.

Chef Ooe came out and talked about the dishes, ingredients, and about Japanese food in general. He said that he is from Yamagata, which is also where my mother is from. Now that I see his photo, I think we could be long-lost relatives. We could be second or third cousins. He reminds me of some of my first cousins so you never know. :-)

Kozue at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

click on the link above and another link will appear for the menu

Shinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2

03.5323.3460

Lunch: Daily – 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
Dinner: Daily – 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm

There is a new French chef in town, Nicolas Boujéma, at Signature in the Mandarin Oriental. I was very curious to try his food as he has a very impressive resumé, most recently coming from Pierre Gagnaire in Hong Kong. I had the chance to interview him for Metropolis magazine for a Tastemaker piece. It’s always exciting to see a chef who is new to Japan explore the local ingredients. Boujéma is a talented chef and it will be fun to revisit and see how his cuisine evolves as he experiences the changing produce and seafood. He lives near Tsukiji Market and visits often, and says that he finds a lot of inspiration there.

Louis Roederer champagne to start, a lovely wine. This table overlooks Tokyo station, the Bank of Japan, and the historic Nihonbashi district where the Mandarin Oriental is located.

Some lovely amuse bouche to start includes smoked eel, an aromatic muscat, and gougère.

An earthy Australian truffle soup, ravioli foie gras, with a light vegetable broth. It is well balanced and not too heavy, and just sexy enough with the truffles. Which makes me feel guilty for indulging in something so nice before dinner.

Saffron butter and whipped butter. Excellent bread is being made in house  like this petit baguette and brioche. The saffron butter was a very nice touch.

Tavel Chateau d’Aquéria is a lovely rosé and perfect not only on a hot summer day, as this was, but also with the sardine and tomato dish it was served with.

Lovely presentation of iwashi (sardine) that is marinated in salt, lemon juice,  and olive oil. It’s served with a refreshing tomato terrine, goat cheese from Loire, Italian ham, and mustard crouton. Again, the dish is well-balanced and not too rich, as one would expect from iwashi.

Alsace is one of my favorite wine regions for its aromatic white wines with a crisp acidity. It is the wine I choose when we are out and celebrating a special occasion. When the sommelier brought this to the table I couldn’t stop smiling. I was told that a former Japanese sommelier at Signature married into the Hugel family and is now living in Alsace. This was riesling was nice with this next dish.

My favorite dish of the meal was this amazing combination of truffles, waffle, braised shallots, leeks, mushrooms, and whipped cream with truffles. The leek was sliced thin and painted onto the plate. The waffle pockets were stuffed with braised shallots and served with a lovely Port sauce. And again, a hedonistic course with truffles. Had I been at home I would have picked up the plate and licked it clean. 

Francois Villard Condrieu Les Terraces du Palaix. Lovely aromatics in this viognier. This floral Rhone wine is perfect for the accompanying fish main dish which reminded me of the Mediterranean.

Bouillabaise inspired cod, amadai sashimi, eggplant puree with lemon, zucchini, and fennel. The warm breeze of the south of France. A nice touch of amadai (tile fish) sashimi with the cod. 

Potato espumante with saffron is a refreshing palate cleanser before the cheese course.

Macon La Roche Vineuse Gamay – lovely with the cheese! Fruity yet with a nice backbone.

48 months aged Comte cheese which I am told is very rare. It is prepared with truffles, a white pepper cream, and shaved with some sweet jelly, and brioche in the middle. Muscat grape and dragon fruit. A luxurious course and so nice to see the cheese served three ways.

Hakuto peaches espumante. A wonderful, light finish and a nice touch as peaches are at the peak of their seasonality in Japan at the moment. 

And a few sweet touches to end a lovely lunch.

It’s always exciting to welcome a new chef to Tokyo. Be sure to put Signature on your Go List for Tokyo. Excellent food, outstanding service, knowledgeable sommeliers, and spectacular views – day or night. It will be fun to watch his cuisine evolve as he acquaints himself with the seasonal Japanese ingredients.

Signature at the Mandarin Oriental

Nihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1

Chuo-ku, Tokyo

Reservations: 03-3270-8188

http://www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo/fine-dining/signature/

New York Grill buffet

One of my favorite lunch spots in Tokyo is at the New York Grill in the Park Hyatt Tokyo. The view at 52 floors above Tokyo is amazing, even when it is overcast and lightly raining. The lunch starts at 5,000 JPY and includes a gorgeous buffet of appetizers. Customers choose a main course and then dive into the buffet again for dessert.

Appetizers include flatbreads, salads, sliced meats, and much more. It’s hard not to stuff yourself with only appetizers, but make sure to make room for the main course.

We asked for seats at the kitchen counter so that we could talk with chef Federico Heinzmann. He was very gracious to talk to us about the different dishes and answer our many questions. Sitting here is also fun as we can watch all of the customers come in. It’s such an amazing spot that it is great to watch the faces of guests as they look into the open kitchen, as they check out the view, and as they walk into the main dining room. On this day it was cloudy and I expected the restaurant to be quiet, but even on this day it was busy.

Chef Federico Heinzmann’s Chicken

Argentinian chef Federico recommended the chicken as it “is the most Latin”. The chicken is marinated in orange juice, grilled and topped with a fresh salsa and served with a corn cake. Living in Tokyo the flavors are so exotic and I quickly said that I would not be sharing this with Shinji.

Australian Lamb and Romesco Sauce

Shinji was fine not sharing as he loved the lamb, which we don’t eat very often. The sauce was made with bell peppers and hazelnuts. Chef told us about how in Spain this is used as a dipping sauce for whole leeks that have been charred and peeled. it sounds like an amazing dish. The hazelnuts makes it a very meat, albeit, vegetarian sauce. Chef Federico was kind enough to share the recipes for the sauces for both dishes, so we will try to recreate some of these at home.

The wine list is rich in American wines, mainly from California. There are always interesting offerings by the glass, perfect for lunch.

Dessert Buffet at New York Grill

This is only half of the dessert buffet. There is something here for everyone, including ice cream and several sauces and toppings as well as a simple fruit salad with mango and pineapple, and key lime pie. Coffee and dessert is usually taken in the New York Bar so diners get another magnificent view of the city. Fans of Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation will remember this space as it has a starring role in the movie.

Service is always impeccable here. If you are looking for a special lunch spot, the New York Grill, never disappoints. I have come in the past with girlfriends and we still reminisce about our lunch here, years later. The view, the cuisine, and the service makes this a memorable meal.

New York Grill at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

Shinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2

03-5323-3458

Imperial Hotel Terrace Lemon Pie

The main building of the Hotel Okura will be closing at the end of summer. Many are coming to sit in the lobby under the signature lantern lamps. The visitors are a mix of locals and non-Japanese, young and old. It will be sad to say sayonara to this beautiful lobby as we know it.

I wanted to bid farewell to the hotel with a taste of the Okura. The lemon pie at the Terrace restaurant is the original recipe and has not changed in 50 years. It is sweet and tart and has an old school meringue on top. The custard is rich with eggs and the lemon flavor is mild. It is the lemon pies I grew up with, not the fancy tarte au citron available at French patisseries throughout the city. It tastes old and what better way to say adieu than with a nod to the past?

Lemon Pie poster

A poster of the Lemon Pie at the hotel. It is one of their signature items.

One of the staff escorted me to the Terrace Restaurant and I asked her about the new hotel and if the lobby would be coming back. She did say that plans are to save some of the pieces, such as the lantern lamps, chairs, and tables. If it makes sense to bring these back, then we may be seeing some of these again. The South Wing will remain open during reconstruction of the main building.

Hotel Okura Lantern Lamps

I’ve stayed in the Hotel Okura years ago for about a week. I never made it to the Terrace Restaurant, and so exploring the hotel was another treat. I was here for business and all I could enjoy of the hotel was my bed and bath.

There is a lovely garden that the Terrace overlooks. Sitting next to me was a group of older Japanese ladies who were very sad about the renovation project. One even walked over to the small pond to bid farewell to the fish. We are all treasuring these last few days.

Hotel Okura

Minato-ku, Toranomon 2-10-4

Chaliapin Steak

Feodor Ivanovich Chaliapin, a Russian opera singer, was touring in Japan in 1936, and was a guest of the Imperial Hotel. He was dining at the New Grill, the predecessor to La Brasserie, even though he was suffering from a toothache, he wanted to have steak. The executive chef, Fukuo Tsutsui, came up with this dish, now called the Chaliapin Steak. Taking inspiration from the classical sukiyaki dish, he put finely minced onions on top of a steak to soften the meat and then grilled it.

The ingredients are simply steak, onions, butter, salt and pepper. La Brasserie uses aged rump steak. The onions are sautéed just enough to draw out the sweetness.

La Brasserie is a nice nod to the classic French brasseries. As it is in the basement of the Imperial Hotel, many visitors never make it down here, which is also part of its intrigue. The restaurant is popular with Japanese and reservations are highly recommended at lunch as it is very busy.

The interior reminds me of a polished up Balthazar. Red banquettes, but these are velvet. Service is professional but without the stuffiness that can be found at many Japanese French restaurants.

If you are craving something more formal, then head to the mezzanine level to Chef Thierry Voisin’s Les Saisons, which has recently started serving breakfast. I am a big fan of his cuisine.

La Brasserie at the Imperial Hotel
+81-3-3539-8073
Chiyoda-ku, Uchisaiwai-cho 1-1-1 千代田区内幸町1-1-1
Imperial Hotel, Tokyo, Tower Bldg., LL1

http://www.imperialhotel.co.jp/e/tokyo/restaurant/la_brasserie/

Hatsumago Sparkling

Kozue at the Park Hyatt Tokyo is a lovely spot for Japanese cuisine. At lunch if the skies are clear you have a gorgeous view of Mount Fuji. At night the city twinkles below you.

Two years ago Kozue did a special Tohoku menu to show their support for three prefectures that were hit hard by the earthquake and tsunami, Fukshima, Miyagi, and Iwate. This year Kozue is repeating the Tohoku Heroes menu, but moving on to the other three prefectures, Aomori, Akita, and Yamagata.

Chef Kenichiro Ooe is from Yamagata, as is my family, so we share this connection with Tohoku. At a recent dinner at Kozue chef Ooe introduced many products and sake from Tohoku.

Koji Nishizaki, the manager of Kozue, gave lovely commentary on the sake with each course. We started the evening off with a sparkling sake from Hatsumago. Hatsumago is a lovely brewery from Sakata in Yamagata. I sold many bottles of Hatsumago when I worked at Takashimaya. It means the first grandchild. A lovely gift for new grandparents. It is only 10% in alcohol, so light on the palate and refreshing. A great start to any evening.

Hiraizumi Marubi 15, Yamahai Junmai, Akita Miyama-nishiki rice. The yeast that is used for this sake is called Akita kobo #15, where the sake gets its name. Although it is a yamahai sake, it is not too heavy as yamahai can be. A very food friendly sake.

Chef Ooe talked about visiting the Tohoku region to meet the farmers, ranchers, and fishermen behind many of the products that they are using. For example, the watarigani crab used in this starter has a local name of gazami. I love these local colloquialism regarding food. It seems to be especially prevalent with seafood. The crab is  steamed in sake, spinach, myoga, and Tosa-zu jelly. Tosa-zu is a classic tart dressing made with rice vinegar, soy sauce, mirin, and dashi. As a jelly it adds a nice texture to the dish. The Hatsumago sparkling paired well with the Tosa-zu jelly, myoga, and crab. Underneath is some kani-miso, or the offal of the crab, a delicacy and an unexpected and nice surprise. The rich kani-miso was rich and paired well with the Hiraizumi Yamahai Junmai.

Warm Aomori hokkigai appetizer with seri, maitake mushrooms, ginko nuts, and sansho was served with Hakkoda Oroshi Daiginjo. Both the hokkigai clam and sake are from Aomori, so a natural partner. I also love this dish with the accent on both edges of the bowl. Dining at Kozue is also a delight on the eyes. Each time I am here I come across new tableware that capture my attention. The Japanese eat with their eyes and taking in the vessels are part of the pleasure of dining at Kozue.

Owan soup bowl. Check out this lovely lacquer bowl with silver and gold circles. My neighbor at the dinner, a Japanese travel writer, said, “it is September”, like I should know why this bowl is being used this time of year. Of course, the harvest moon. So here you also get an appreciation that chef Ooe selected this bowl for this dish due to the time of year.

The owan soup course is a famous local dish called ichigoni of awabi and uni. I’ve tried it in the past and have never liked it, until now. Chef Ooe’s soup was rich in umami and the seafood was pristine. It didn’t hurt that there was matsutake mushrooms and other vegetables in the soup.

Denshu Tokubetsu Junmai from Aomori, lucky if you can get your hands on this sake. :-)

Chef Ooe sashimi presentation always has a big impact. How gorgeous is this large katakuchi bowl filled with crushed ice? This is a serving for three guests. Mimmaya bluefin tuna, makogarei, and amaebi. The fresh nori is always a treat. Chef Ooe commented that it is still early in the season and that the tuna was not as fatty as it will be later in the season as the water cools down.

Amanoto made with kuro koji from Akita. This was my favorite of the night. I wonder if it is because of the black koji – as I am a fan of Okinawa awamori spirit, which is also made with kuro koji. It was served with a Hinai jidori chicken from Akita and included a kiritampo rice ball, a classic dish from Akita. It was nice to see it elevated to this level, as it is a dish often made at home. I think this dish that this was presented in was my favorite of the night.

Sadly I had to leave the dinner, unexpectedly, and missed out on the Yamagata Yonezawa wagyu and the Yamagata soba. Dessert was a rice ice cream. I did love being introduced to new sake, a renewed appreciation for Tohoku ingredients, and seeing new vessels. If you go, I highly recommend asking to have Tohoku sake paired with your meal.

The Tohoku Heroes event runs now through November 30th, both lunch and dinner. There will be a special dinner on the evening of November 29th, where some of the producers will be in attendance. For more details:

http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/news-and-events/events/tohoku-heroes-2015.html

The Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Grill offers a special menu from May 16-23, 2016. The Nose-to-Tail wagyu event is a five-course event for meat lovers. Chef de Cuisine of the New York Grill and Bar Federico Heinzmann is from Argentina. Federico was saying that Argentines eat about 55 kg of beef a year, compared to only about 5 kg for the Japanese. So, you know you are in good hands with an all-meat tasting course in the hands of an Argentine chef. In Argentina there are 39 million people and 47 million cows.

Federico pointed out that the Japanese are already used to eating every bit and piece of the animal. For example, at a yakitori-ya the menu will include different parts of the chicken, so the concept of a nose-to-tail for the Japanese is not too unusual.

The theme for this year’s event is “Smoked and Cured”, which is woven into each course. Many meats are marinated before cooking and several accompaniments are smoked, adding complexity to the dishes.

I don’t want to reveal too much of the meal, as it is a treat to have the cuisine revealed for you at the dinner. The bits of the cow include the tongue, heart, brisket, flank, and tail. Chef Federico also excels in vegetables, which shines in side dishes like a fermented carrot quinoa risotto. There is a nod to NYC with a pastrami and to Patagonia with an ancient rock salt.

The main course is a flank steak. The Japanese have a saying, “kameba kamu hodo“, the more you chew, the more delicious it is. The Argentines also have a similar philosophy and the two countries meet here in this dish.

The wines for the tasting course is expertly paired with Melville wines from the Santa Rita Hills AVA in Santa Barbara. The cool climate wines are aged in old French barrels, so the grapes can speak for themselves. Refreshing, nice acidity, and very food-friendly chardonnay and pinot noirs for the dinner. As a sommelier, I can confirm that the pairings complement the cuisine.

If you are visiting Tokyo during this time, you are in luck. If you live in this great city, save this meal for a special night out. You are in good hands. Come early and have a cocktail at the New York Bar before your dinner.

Details:

New York Grill at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

20,000 JPY (plus tax and service) for five courses, dinner only

May 16-23, 2016

http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/NewYorkGrill.html

The Imperial Hotel recently hosted a wine dinner with winemaker Enrique Tirado of Don Melchor from Concho y Toro. Don Melchor has partnered with Michelin 3-star chef Bruno Menard for a series of wine dinners in Asia. What a treat it would be to taste the wines paired with chef Bruno’s cuisine in different countries. Tokyoites were happy to welcome back chef Menard who was most recently at Ginza L’Osier.

The evening opened with an aromatic and refreshing 2013 Terrrunyo Sauvignon Blanc. Strong notes of citrus on the nose and the bright acidity sings of cool climate vineyards. Perfect start for a hot summer evening.

The first course was a beet tartare with geranium essence and cocoa. Paired with the 2013 Don Melchor that has 9% Cabernet Franc and 93% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Cabernet Franc floral aromas danced above the wine and shined as the geranium essence brought the two together. The wine also had intense dark fruits of cassis and blackberries with some pencil lead. It was a well-balanced wine.

Enrique stopped by my table during this wine. He is charming and talks passionately about the wines and the vineyards. He said that he put 9% of Cabernet Franc in this vintage as the fruit was so beautiful in that harvest.

The second dish was a buckwheat (soba) risotto topped with smoked eel and foie gras and garnished with, sansho leaves, yukari (dried red shiso) and soba-cha. I could see chef Bruno’s influence of his long time in Japan in this dish.

This was paired with a 1988 Don Melchor, from before Enrique’s time. This had a nice acidity and a pleasant bitterness. The tannins were still quite rich for a wine almost 20 years old. The wine reminded me of Gene Wilder, who had recently passed away, refreshing and bitter. The food pairing was nice as the smoky notes from the eel and sansho stood up to the wine.

The main course was roast duck and mushrooms with a verjus sauce with a carrot mouse. I believe the duck was marinated in miso. This was paired with a 2005 Don Melchor that had intense tannins, dark fruit and chocolate. It was calling out for meat and this was a nice pairing. The sauce brought a nice acidity, with the verjus, to round out the pairing.

Even dessert was paired with a 2010 Don Melchor. I was skeptical, but not surprised when it did come together. Bruno’s father is a chocolatier so he grew up around a kitchen and sweets. The wine sung of intense fruit, spice, and ripe tannins. Dessert was a granité of griotte cherries and red wine, chocolate biscuit, and a five-spice chantilly. This was a great match, one as a sommelier I never would have been brave enough to pair. My eyes have been opened.

Chef Bruno came to speak to the diners. I was so impressed as he is fluent in Japanese! He said that he spent 14 years working in Japan, and that they were very important years in his career. He obviously knows the Japanese palate well. The menu was not too heavy and the dishes were created with a nod towards simplicity. He was easy to speak to and obviously loves his work.

The wines paired with the cuisine made for a memorable evening.

Chef Bruno mentioned that he has worked with the Imperial Hotel’s Les Saison chef, Thierry Voisin, since 1983 in France. The two have a long history and apparently also have played together in a band – now that is something I would LOVE to see.

Chef Bruno will be returning to Les Saison in October for a collaboration dinner with chef Thierry. Details for Bruno Menard week, October 17-23, lunch and dinner, here (in Japanese):

http://www.imperialhotel.co.jp/j/tokyo/restaurant/les_saisons/plan/bruno_menard_week.html

Shunbou is the Japanese restaurant at the Grand Hyatt in Roppongi. The Grand Hyatt has several Japanese restaurants including Roku Roku for sushi and Keyakizaka for teppanyaki. Shunbou features seasonal kaiseki dishes as well as comfort food like curry udon. It is kid-friendly and a great option in the Roppongi area.

Entering the restaurant seasonal produce is displayed, as are large earthenware serving dishes. The main dining room is in granite and there is an inner garden behind windows that opens up to the sky, bringing in sunlight, or on this day, rain sprinkling on the rocks and tree.

I joined a friend for lunch here and ordered the shun-sai lunch box (5,300 JPY). The presentation is gorgeous as lunch comes in a wooden box with three tiers. The appetizer for the autumn lunch is a chrysanthemum tofu topped with chrysanthemum petals.

The first tier was composed of tuna sashimi, yuba (soy milk skin), mozuku (a slippery sea vegetable), and grilled sanma (Pacific saury).

The second tier included crab cream croquette and grilled salmon.

Grilled Iberico pork, unohana (tofu lees with vegetables), and boiled vegetables completed the third tier.

Separately takikomigohan of vegetables cooked with rice, grilled eggplant miso soup, and pickles round out the lunch. Dessert is a petit kuri chestnut wagashi, not too sweet. It was a perfect mini-kaiseki including all of the components and was a great way to sense the seasons.

Executive sous chef, Takuya Nezasa, was with Nadaman for thirteen years before coming to Shunbou. Nadaman for Tokyoites is a revered establishment with a 185-year history. Some department stores will have a branch of Nadaman in the depachika so that customers can buy seasonal and traditional dishes. Shunbou is kappō-style so you can see some of the chefs in the open kitchen cooking.

The sake list has many offerings by-the-glass, including seasonal hiyaoroshi from Nagano Masumi brewery, perfect with the ingredients available this time of year.

The dishware is also lovely. Many had lovely textures, like the teacup, calling out to be held. The meal is also a pleasure for the eyes.

Lunch starts at 1,900 JPY for curry udon or soba with rice. We got a small bite of the curry and it’s a light curry and not too spicy. The menu is vast and offers something for everyone. The menu is in English and of course staff speak English, so Shunbou is also a good option for some who may have reservations going to traditional Japanese restaurants with an English speaker.

Menu:

http://restaurants.tokyo.grand.hyatt.co.jp/wp-content/uploads/pdf/shunbou_menu.pdf

Grand Hyatt Tokyo – 6th floor

Minato-ku, Roppongi 6-10-3 港区六本木6-10-3

Map:

http://restaurants.tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/access.html

My go-to brasserie is Girandole at the Park Hyatt Tokyo. The menu includes many classics like Salad Nicoise (2,300 JPY) and Pate de Campagne (2,600 JPY). I love the Japanese twist on the salad which included seared tuna. The pate de campagne is dense without being heavy.  There is a nice selection of wines by the glass. Service is professional without being stodgy.

The Petit Lunch is a good value for 2,500 JPY which starts with a soup or salad, main, and dessert. The restaurant is on the 41st floor of the Park Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku. There are a handful of seats along the window, but I prefer the cozy banquettes. At a recent dinner here there was a family celebrating a baby’s first birthday in a corner semi-private room. We’ve come with our young son and the kid-friendly restaurant made us feel at home.

Girandole at the Park Hyatt Tokyo

Shinjuku-ku, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, Park Hyatt Tokyo 41st Floor

https://tokyo.park.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/Girandole.html

Matsumoto has a rich history of mingei, traditional Japanese crafts.　The Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu celebrates the mingei philosophy. The hotel opened in Meiji 20 (130 years ago). The older part of the hotel has rooms with some Matsumoto folk craft furniture. This part of Nagano is known for its hot springs waters and the hotel has an onsen on property.

The gift shop has many beautiful folk craft items including lacquerware, glassware, paper products, and more.

The hotel has bicycles to explore the city. I will definitely go back in warmer weather.

It is also a short walk to cool spots like the Cohiludo cafe specializing in oyaki dumplings. Shizuka, a popular izakaya, is just around the corner from the hotel. The popular Nakamichi Dori and Nawate Dori streets are also nearby and are lined with shops for local crafts. Kaiundo wagashi confectionary store is also nearby.

Hotel Kagetsu

Nagano-ken, Matsumoto-shi, Ōte 4-8-9

https://matsumotohotel-kagetsu.com/en/

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When looking for hotels in Japan I seek out properties with onsen, ideally rotenburo which are outdoor onsen. I love the feel of the cold air while soaking in the hot springs and even better if I can see the stars at night.

Onyado Nono is a chain in the Dormy Inn group. Dormy Inn is a basic no frills business hotel, sometimes with an onsen on the property. The Onyado Nono rooms are a bit more spacious with tatami mats and a bed.

The Dormy Inn properties, along with Onyado Nono, serve a complimentary bowl of ramen at 9:30 p.m. There is also a free ice cream bar after soaking in the onsen and in the mornings a probiotic drink after the morning soak.

The buffet breakfast at Onyado Nono is filled with local dishes called kyōdo ryōri. It’s a great opportunity to sample different dishes that are unique to the destination.

This Matsumoto branch is in a quiet part of the city, about a five-minute walk from the station.

Guests take off their shoes when entering the property. Be sure to ask for a pair of complimentary tabi socks at the front desk.

Onyado Nono Matsumoto

Nagano-ken, Matsumoto-shi, Fukashi 1-5-17

https://www.hotespa.net/hotels/nono_matsumoto/

#foodsaketokyo #Japan #Japantravel #Nagano #Matsumoto #Matsumotohotel #hotel #OnyadoNono #松本 #長野 #信州 #旅 #旅行 #松本ホテル #長野ホテル #onsen #hotsprings #温泉 #ドーミーイン #ホテル

These chocolates are from chef Julien Pertinet of the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Valentine chocolates this year comes in three unique flavors that will be fun to pair with wine (or even saké). The chocolates are available through March 14th, White Day, at the hotel’s Pastry Boutique.

1. wine and figs with cheese and vanilla

2. chai tea with orange and almonds

3. apple and cinnamon

https://restaurants.tokyo.park.hyatt.co.jp/news/4326.html

ValentinesDay in Japan is a big deal. The gift-giving culture extends to February 14th when women will give chocolates to many men in their lives. The boyfriend or spouse gets hon choco, or the true chocolate. Colleagues at work get giri choco, obligatory chocolate. Friends will get tomo choco, tomodachi for friend.

On March 14th, White Day, the men will reciprocate with gifts to the women who gave them chocolates today.

#PastryBoutique #ParkHyattTokyo #foodsaketokyo #バレンタイン #バレンタインデー #パークハイアット東京 #ペストリーブティック #chocolate #チョコ #チョコレート #東京グルメ #東京スイーツ #スイーツ

I am a big fan of the Onyado Nono hotel chain for it’s simple Japanese-style rooms, hot springs including an outdoor rotenburo, and free bowl of ramen at night. This branch is between Kitahama and Yodoyabashi stations in Ōsaka.

Onyado Nono is part of the Dormy Inn chain. Members of their app can get free happy hour drinks. I was with my kid so the kind staff let me take two cups of sweet potato shōchū back to my room with some ice. Free ice cream bars and probiotic drinks after the soak in the onsen hot springs.

This chain is quite reasonable. Less than $200 a night for two of us. I believe it’s cheaper if you’re traveling solo. There’s a big buffet breakfast with local dishes. The breakfast is 2,000 yen.

Onyado Nono Hana Nami no Yu Yodoyabashi

https://www.hotespa.net/hotels/nono_yodoyabashi/

#foodsaketokyo #foodsakeosaka #osaka #hotels #Japan #onsen #hotsprings #Japantravel #Japantraveltip #japanhotels #OnyadoNono #Yodoyabashi #Kitahama #ホテル #大阪 #旅 #温泉 #御宿野乃 #大阪ホテル #温泉旅館 #旅館 #大阪グルメ

I picked Kyōto Tune Stay hotel because I love books. Check out this wall of books! Most are in Japanese, but there are some English books in the library. The books cover a variety of topics. I kept carefully perusing the food books and could have stayed up all night.

The rooms are a bare minimum as you can see. Each room has a shower but if you arrive early enough you can sign up for an hour to use the public bathroom.

Tune Stay is about a ten-minute walk from Kyōto station on the north side of the station. Rooms are cheap, about $65 with the current exchange rate. My stay here was after a long work day so it was perfect. I could lounge in the library and explore the books.

Tune Stay

Kyōto-fu, Shimogyō-ku, Ebisunochō 708

https://www.tune-stay.com/

#foodsaketokyo #foodsakekyoto #Kyoto #library #hotel #Kyotohotel #Kyotobookhotel #booklover #Japan #Japantraveltips #Kyototravel #京都 #ホテル #本 #本が好き #京都ホテル #TuneStay #bookhotel #Kyototips #旅 #旅行

The Mitsui Garden Hotel Shijō is a lovely hotel with an onsen hot springs near Shijō Street in Kyōto. I booked at the last minute and got a good rate of 8,500 yen ($60). The only twist was that it was a room with three beds in it.

Shijō Street is wonderful as it’s walking distance to Nishiki Market, Takashimaya department store, and much more. Near the hotel is a LIFE supermarket that has good prepared foods.

Mitsui Garden Hotel Shijō

https://www.gardenhotels.co.jp/kyoto-shijo/

#foodsakeTokyo #foodsakeKyoto #MitsuiGardenHotels #MitsuiGardenHotelShijo #Kyoto #Japan #Japantraveltips #Kyototravel #京都 #三井ガーデンホテル #ホテル #京都ホテル #KyotoHotels

The Tokyu Higashiyama Hotel is a comfortable stay near the Heian Jingu Shrine. The rooms are large and spacious.

The bar has some Japanese whisky and the Japanese breakfast includes a colorful selection of Kyoto-style obanzai small dishes. The hotel is encouraging sustainable practices. The hotel is about a five-minute walk from Higashiyama Station.

Near the hotel is Shuiro cafe and shop for housewares. Shuiro opens for breakfast from 8:00 a.m. There is also a charming soba shop nearby called Sanmi Kouan which is along a quiet stream with outdoor seats.

The Hotel Higashiyama by Kyoto Tokyu Hotel

https://www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com/global/higashiyama-h/index.html

Kyoto-shi, Higashiyama-ku, Ebisu-chō 175-2

#foodsaketokyo #foodsakekyoto #Kyoto #hotels #Kyotohotel #Japan #Japantravel #Japantraveltips #Higashiyama #HigashiyamaHotel #京都 #東山 #京都ホテル #東山ホテル #ホテル #おばんざい #Japanesebreakfast #SDGs #京都旅 #京都旅行

Umekoji Potel is a fun hotel in Kyoto. I loved the hotel room with the used artist brushes on the wall. There’s a small library with some books on Kyoto which were fun to peruse. There is also a simple snack bar with dried fruits, nuts, chocolate, juice, beer, and wine. There is a public bath in the hotel which was a nice way to relax at the end of the day.

On the hotel property is a fermentation shop with sake, wine, and snacks. The breakfast buffet is extensive.

The Umekoji Potel hotel is near Umekoji Kyoto Nishi Station on the JR line. It’s one stop from Kyoto Station. It’s not very convenient if you want to do sightseeing. It would be better to stay near Shijo or Sanjo area if you want to go back to your hotel during the day. I was on a business trip so was working from my room for this stay so it was perfect.

Umekoji Potel

https://www.potel.jp/kyoto/

#foodsaketokyo #foodsakekyoto #Kyoto #Kyotohotels #hotels #Japan #Potel #Umekoji #京都 #京都ホテル #京都旅 #京都旅行 #ホテル #ポテル #京都駅 #伝統工芸 #京都おしゃれホテル #京都かわいいホテル #京都水族館 #京都鉄道博物館

One of the best bites I have had in a while is this seasonal vegetable tart at the #ImperialHotel bakery #Gargantua. Perfectly sliced squashes in gorgeous circles over an herbaceous base. The ham and cheese bun was also amazing.

There is a small eat-in area in the popular bakery.

The Imperial Hotel is near Yurakucho Station

Gargantua Bakery

Contemporary French cuisine made in Japan is always fascinating as I love to see how the chef incorporates local ingredients. The menu at est at the Four Seasons Tokyo at Otemachi includes a map of Japan referencing where produce, meat, milk, cheese, honey, and more come from. Even the tableware artisans are included on the map. Sommelier Yoichi Ooka has a cellar of domestic wines that pair well with the cuisine.

In the kitchen chef Guillaume Bracaval @guillaumebracavalchef has an impressive resume. Honing his skills in Paris at reputable restaurants Hotel de Crillon, Arpège with Alain Passard, Ledoyen with Christian le Squer, and LÁmbroisie with Bernard Pacaud. Chef Bracaval, from Lille in northern France, has been in Japan for 12 years at Troisgros in Shinjuku and now at est since the hotel opened three and a half years ago.

Chef speaks fluent Japanese and eloquently spoke of the ingredients and of Japan’s diverse terroir. I was with my Japanese cousin so our conversation with chef was in Japanese. The menu at est is composed of 95% Japanese ingredients.

Chef includes many Japanese touches including housemade yuzu kosho which was dotted over monkfish adding citrusy notes to the meaty fish. Hirame flounder is cured in kombu kelp and wrapped in a thin slice of kohlrabi. My cousin said it tasted like Japan. Powdered moromi is served with soybean hummus, two more nods to Japan. Roasted maitake mushrooms are accented with pickled celery. In each dish I was impressed with chef’s mastering of balance – acidity, bitterness, and umami.

Italian pastry chef Michele Abbatemarco ends the meal with ethereal sweets including a cloudy meringue with fig compote and a flight of honey mignardises.

Service is exquisite. Our seats overlooked the financial district with Tokyo Sky Tree off in the distance.

est 

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi, 39th floor

Chiyoda-ku, Otemachi 1-2-1